ENGINE
PROBLEMS
STARTING
-Won't "catch", makes a funny noise or clicks, have to turn
key off and on serveral times before it "catches".
If engine turns over slowly, may be a low
battery that is not engaging starter. Check for charge.
Starter Solenoid probably needs
replacing.
STARTING
-Engine
makes a screeching noise when it starts or when I rev the engine.
Loose drive belts. Check tension, should be
rigid, no play at all. To tighten, adjust alternator position.
If belts are tight, check inside surface.
If they are glazed and shiny apply belt dressing (available at any parts
store).
If noise is constant for extended
periods, and if above measures don't work, fan bearings probably need
replacing. Fix them soon, they will disentigrate within 24 hours.
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STARTING
-Engine
won't turn over.
Before you mess
with the battery check the fuses. Most ignition systems have a
fuse, and it may be burned out. Unfortunately, this may indicate a greater
problem in the electrical system, probably a short. If it happens again
you should get it fixed.
Dead
battery. If you have a hydrometer (a little device that checks
battery charge), check the charge. If low, recharge.
Loose cable clamps may be the problem, and the
engine isn't getting a sufficient current. Check the nuts on the cable
clamps.
Corroded battery posts may be
the problem if the battery is charged and the clamps are tight. Disconnect
the clamps and clean both the surface of the post and inside the clamp.
reconnect. Be sure to tighten the nuts good and tight. Apply a coat of
vaseline or grease to the clamps to retard corroding.
If the above measures don't get results, the
starter may be kaput, or hopefully, the cable connection at the starter
has worked loose. Either way, you'll probably need a pro to fix
it.
If the starter is OK you
likely have ignition problems, which involves repair to the electrical
system.
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OVERHEATING
Defective radiator cap: If the cap is old and the
gasket is cracked or partially torn away, replace the cap.
Check coolant: But not when the engine is cold.
Start the engine with the radiator cap off. The coolant may appear
to be OK, or just a little low, but when it is circulating through the
engine it may be WAY low. If low, fill the radiator while engine is
running, before it gets too hot. This is one of those "DUH!" warnings;
DON'T CHECK COOLANT LEVEL AFTER THE ENGINE HAS REACHED OPERATING
TEMPERATURE! Many people aren't aware that there is tremendous pressure
built up in an engine cooling system. If you take off the cap while the
engine is hot, you may sustain serious injury.
Check coolant: If it is discolored (rusty and
dirty looking) you may have a clogged radiator. Try a can of flush and see
if it helps. Just follow the instructions on the can.
Check lower hoses: Any hoses to the radiator that
are the bigger type, with the coiled wire inside, could be collapsing from
the suction of circulation if they are old, or if you have recently
replaced the hoses that are the "El Cheapo" brand. Look at them when the
engine has reached operating temp. If they are collapsing get new
ones.
Check for water leaks if the
coolant keeps diasppearing (duh!). Common causes of leaks are; bad or
cheap hoses, loose radiator petcock, leaky radiator, leaky heater hoses,
or a bad water pump.
A defective water
pump leaks just a little water at first, and it get
progressively worse. This problem can go on for months. Fix it soon, or
end up stranded by the side of the road. When the pump goes, it will go
quickly.
A leaky radiator will
have to be fixed. Stop Leak may stem the flow, but it isn't a permanent
solution.
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POOR
PERFORMANCE
-Engine misses and
has poor acceleration. If you are the handyman
type, pull the plugs and check them. If they are caked with
carbon, or "wet" with fuel and plugged with a black sludge, you need to
change them. But, this condition also signals a problem with your fuel
system, the mixture is too lean, or too rich. You should have a mechanic
adjust the fuel mixture, it won't cost much.
Another possible
cause, probably in older engines, is "blowby", which is oil that escapes
from the cylinders and is channeled into the exhaust system.
Unfortunately, this is a symptom of bad rings, and has no inexpensive
solution.
Check plug wire connections
at both ends, at the plugs and on the distributor cap. Make sure they are
seated and not loose. If the leads are loose on the plug end, pull the
rubber cap back and look at the metal connectors. Sometimes they are
expanded and won't clasp the plug tightly. Just pinch them slightly with
some pliers (but not too much!). Reconnect it and see if it
helps.
On the other end, at the distributor, if the little rubber
caps are cracked they are old and have lost their flexibility. They
probably aren't holding the lead tightly in the cap. You should replace
them. If the plugs are. clean, and the
connections seem to be good, check the rubber on the outside of the plug
wires. If it is cracked, install new ones.
Older
vehicles with a carburator have an air filter which lays inside
the large device that is clamped onto the carburator, on the very top of
the engine. Unscrew the wingnut that holds it down and take off the top
part. Check the filter. If it is black and obviously filthy, replace
it.
In older vehicles there may
be a problem in the fuel system. It could be as simple as a fouled fuel
line filter. Over the years, condensation in the gas tank causes rust to
form on the bottom. This is usually a very minor amount, but it may be
enough to send rust particles through the line and foul the filter. The
good news is, it will be inexpensive to fix this.
Again, in older vehicles, namely, those that
have a carburation system rather then fuel injection, the carburator can
be causing the problem for a variety of reasons. Almost all of them can be
fixed with a rebuild kit, and the cost is minimal.
Get a tuneup. Specify a minor tune, as a major
tune is pretty steep. 9 times out of 10 a minor tune will do the trick.
Note that this problem can involve anything from a dirty carburator (if
you have one), to a plugged fuel line, timing, fuel mixture, or a more
complex problem. The mechanic will discover the problem in the tuneup
process and advise you of it.
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STRANGE
BEHAVIOR
-Engine keeps trying to
run after I shut it off.
This is
"pre-ignition" firing and is almost always a sign that the
timing is way off. This problem may be accompanied by backfiring if you
have a carburator. Best advice, get a complete tuneup. Don't wait too
long, because backfiring can cause serious damage to your vehicle, and
even start a fire under the hood.
STRANGE
BEHAVIOR
-Engine
backfires
This is a timing
problem, or your carburator needs adjustment. It could also indicate your
timing belt (or chain) is defective. Whichever of these it is, you need
professional help.
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STRANGE
BEHAVIOR
-Engine makes a
"pinging" sound.
Probably low octane
gas. You may be driving a vehicle that requires high octane, or
premium gas. Check your manufacturer's specs for the engine, or just try
several tanks of premium. If this doesn't help you may need a tuneup. Have
a pro check it, he can probably tell you in a matter of minutes what the
problem is.
-Engine just stops running all of the
sudden.
May be a variety of
problems. This might be vapor lock, which is caused when a
heated fuel line creates a vapor that "blocks" the fuel, or it may be a
timing belt, or an injector sensor (one of many), or a sticky carburator
float...to name just a few things. Have a pro find the problem.
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HEATER
-Heater won't
Heat.
If you haven't replaced the
thermostat in a while, that may be the culprit. The thermostat is located
on the top of the engine, usually the front, at the point where the
radiator hose connects. There is usually a ball-shaped fitting bolted to
the engine that the hose is clamped to. Remove the fitting, the thermostat
should be nestled inside.
Check to see if
air is coming from the vent when you turn on the fan. If not,
the vent may be frozen shut, or the cable defective or loose.
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HEATER
-Heater
heats too slow.
Thermostat. If
you just moved from a warmer climate, you probably have the wrong
thermostat. They are spring action devices, and the ones for warm climes
have stronger springs, so the temp must be higher (pressure) before they
open.
The thermostat may still be the
problem if you've lived here all your life. Old ones get covered with
deposits which restrict proper travel of the seal disk.
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HEATER
-Heater
fan won't run.
Fuse. Check and
replace as necessary.
Fan motor.
There may be several causes of this problem, but no simple way to isolate
the problem that can be applied by an amature. It's best to have a pro
look at it.
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AIR
CONDITIONING
-AC won't
cool.
Check the fuse. In most
systems, the fan and ac compressor are on different circuits, so it will
blow air, but no cool when the ac fuse is out.
Loose belt. Should be firm, no slack at all.
Requires adjustment of compressor position.
Needs recharging. Sorry, no self-charging kits
anymore. Take your vehicle to a garage or mechanic.
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AIR
CONDITIONING
-Keeps recycling on
and off.
Needs compressor
oil. Included in the recharge.
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AIR
CONDITIONING
-Makes a funny
noise.
Bad news; If the
compressor makes noise it's probably bearings in the pully. Replace the
compressor.
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BATTERY
-Battery
keeps losing charge.
Have the
battery recharged. If the cells are no good it won't hold
enough current to start your car. Get a new one. You can simplify this
process by purchasing a hydrometer at you local parts store. These devices
are a simple means of determining if the lead plates in the battery have
lost their "potency". A budget brand hydrometer will only cost a few
bucks, but even though you may not need it very often, it comes in very
handy when you do. Anyone can use one with the simple instructions on the
package.
May be the alternator.
Nowadays the generator and alternator are in one unit. An alternator sends
the current to the battery that keeps it charged. When it starts going bad
it sends juice, but not enough, so the battery is slowly drained. If you
have EFI, or Electronic Fuel Injection, DON'T DRIVE THE CAR IN THIS
CONDITION FOR LONG! In older cars the motor would run even if battery went
dead, or the generator failed, but in EFI cars, the engine needs the spark
from the battery, or alternator to run. If your alternator goes out you
will be able to drive just so long as your battery has a charge in it.
Once it's dead, you're afoot! A pro can tell you if this is the
problem.
Short in the system. A
short is syphoning off power a little at a time, or it could be overnight
if the short is bad enough.This is an electrical system problem and will
require professional repair.
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BATTERY
-Engine
won't turn over.
Fouled
connections. First, determine if the battery is dead. Use a
hydometer if you have one, or find a 1 foot length of electrical wire.
Trim the insulation back at both ends. Holding the wire by the insulated
portion, hold one end on either post, then lightly brush the other end
across the other post. If there is a bright, instantaneous spark the
battery is charged.
Loosen the nuts on the cable clamps where they
secure to the battery. The clamps probably won't move. Work them one way,
then the other until they start to move, or insert a large screw driver
tip into the gap in the clamp and force it farther in. Pry gently both
directions until it loosens.
If you don't have a post cleaner, use
a wire brush, or just the edge of a knife, and scrape the posts until they
are shiny clean. Then clean the inside of the clamps and reconnect. You
might apply a coating of vaseline or common grease the the surfaces first
to retard corrosion. Cinch the nuts tight and start your
vehicle.
Dead battery. Follow the
steps in the solution for "won't hold a charge" problem.
Ignition problem. If the battery is charged,
and terminals clean, you may have a problem in the ignition system. There
are other possible causes, but they all require a mechanic.
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STEERING
-Steering is hard to turn and sometimes
jerky.
Low PS fluid or belt.
Check the PS fluid. The dipstick is usually fixed to the bottom of the
filler cap on the pump. Check belt while you're at it. Should be very
firm, no play. Have a mechanic make the adjustment if the belt is loose as
you may have to adjust other components.
Power steering pump. The jerky action, in
particular, indicates a pump going bad. Must replace.
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STEERING
-Steering pulls to right or left.
Check Tire pressure This problem may be just low
pressure in one of the front tires.
Front
end alignment. Toe-in or alignment may need adjustment. There
are other causes for this problem, all require a mechanic.
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STEERING
-Steering makes a whirring noise.
Low fluid level. This problem is usually low fluid.
If this doesn't take care of the noise, take it to the shop.
STEERING
-Front
end vibrates at high speed.
Wheel
balance. This problem may be just poor balancing on a tire, or
none at all. If you have recently had a tire fixed, put on new tires, or
have the spare on the front, the vibration is probably balancing. It is
also possible to throw a weight on bump roads.
Front end alignment. Toe-in or alignment may
need adjustment. This problem is usually evident by uneven wear on the
front tires.
Worn tie rod ends.
On an older car, vibration may be worn tie rod ends. These must be
replaced.
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STEERING
-Steering makes a screeching noise.
Turning too hard. If this happens just when you are
turning as far as the wheel will go you are causing it yourself. Be
carefull not to do this as it wears the pump and will eventually cause a
malfunction.
Pump bearings If the
noise is constant the problem is probably the pump bearings. Make sure the
noise is coming from the steering pump, several other components also
screech, including loose belts.
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BRAKES
-Brake
pedal to "soft", won't stop quickly.
Low on
brake fluid. Find BF reservoir in engine compartment, usually
on rear wall (at back of engine). There should be a semi-clear plastic
reservoir on yop of it with markings on the side to measure level of BF in
system. Fill to proper level. Make sure you have clean, fresh
fluid.
Air in the lines.
Sometimes just adding BF when system is very low will trap air in the
lines, but this usually happens after having brakes worked on. The system
needs "bleeding". This is not a difficult procedure, but messy and
requires two people, most people prefer to let a mechanic mess with
it.
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BRAKES
-Brake
fluid is leaking.
First, determine
where the BF is leaking from. If it's at a wheel the hose
probably needs replacing, but at the master cylinder (under the hood) it
may need a master cylinder...could be seals, have a mechanic look it
over.
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BRAKES
-Brakes
grabbing, pull left or right.
Shoe
fouled. If you have recently repaired a leak some of the BF got
on the shoe before it was fixed and it has become "tacky". When hot, it
increases drag on the drum and actually stops more efficiently than dry
shoes. If bad enough you may need to replace the shoe, but usually, a
mechanic can sand off the fouled area. If you have NOT fixed a leak
recently, then you may have to. The fluid is coming from somewhere! This
is a sign of a leak at the drum.
Shoe
adjustment. Shoes out of adjustment may either not apply enough
pressure to the drum, or vise versa. In this case, a shoe needs to be
adjusted so it applies less pressure, the same as the other
shoes.
Drum scored. Some shops
will "turn" the drums as a standard part of a brake job, some won't. The
drums become grooved over time and must be machined until they have a
smooth surface. Badly scored drums reduce the braking surface, which makes
some of the brakes more effective than others. Always specify that drums
be turned if necessary. A mechanic will advise you of this
problem.
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BRAKES
-Brakes
make grinding noise when stopping.
Worn
shoes. When shoes wear too far it allows the metal of the shoe
mounts to rub against the metal drum, which produces a grinding noise. Get
this fixed right away as the drums will become badly scored, AND your
braking efficiency is reduced.
TRANSMISSION
-Won't shift when cold until I've driven several
miles.
Fouled filter screen.
This symptom could have several causes, but they all require professional
attention. Many times, this happens when the filter screen inside the
transmission collects so many large particles it is blocked, so fluid
doesn't flow as it should. Your transmission fluid is probably dirty, or
the transmission has sustained heat damage at one time and keeps fouling
the fluid with carbon deposits.
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TRANSMISSION
-Transmission slips between gears.
Band adjustment. This is the mst common
transmission problem and can be fixed easily. The "bands" need
adjusting.
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TRANSMISSION
-Gears grind when shifting (manual).
Clutch adjustment. The clutch isn't travelling
far enough to disengage the flywheel, so it is almost like shifting
without a clutch at all. If the clutch is old it may mean you need an
entirely new one, but all clutches can be adjusted several times before
they need replacement.
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TIRES
-Tires on
the front have all the tread worn away on the inside of the tire, and
hardly any on the outside (or vice versa).
Front end alignment This is a classic symptom of
front end misalignment and/or toe-in (or camber). These are separate
adjustments, but almost always done under the "alignment" heading. Even if
you have had this done recently, you may have hit a big pot hole, or even
bumped the curb too hard while parking, and knocked the front end out of
kilter again.
You can catch an alignment problem, and save your
front tires, if you stay alert for other alignment symptoms like steering
that pulls to one side or vibration in the front end.
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TIRES
-Losing
tread too fast.
Cheap tires.
Little needed here in way of explanation. Budget tires just don't stand up
the way quality brands do.
Alignment,
rotation If this problem is just the front tires, and the wear
is uneven, see the explanation of the previous problem (uneven wear), but
there are several other causes of excessive tread wear.
If you are
driving a front wheel drive vehicle the front tires will wear faster than
the rear because the "drivers" (wheels at the power source, not the golf
clubs!) do the starting from a dead stop and pull the car everywhere it
goes, they are connected to the drive axle. On conventional drive
vehicles, which have a long shaft that transfers the power from the engine
to the back end, the rear tires wear faster.
Rotate the tires every
3-4 months to avoid this problem. Most tire vendors will include a free
rotation service as part of the price.
Rotating your tires
periodically will add, in some cases, years of tread life. The investment
is more than worth the savings in the long run, and the safety factor is
also a consideration. Blowouts can cause a driver to lose control and have
an accident, or go into the ditch at best.
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TIRES
-Front end
started vibrating after I got new tires.
Poor balance. Just one tire out of balance can
cause sever vibration to a front end, or even the entire vehicle body.
Take the vehicle back to the vendor and ask them to re-balance the tires.
They should do this for no charge.
This problem can also occur when
you get a flat fixed, or have the spare on the vehicle. If you travel
rough country roads, or even streets with pot holes, a weight can be
thrown off and cause it. Always check the tires first when vibration
occurs before you move on to more complex solutions.
Separated tread. Vibration and other symptoms
can result from separated tread. A tire is constructed of a casing and,
overlaid on top, a thick rubber belt that tapers on both sides. The belt,
which is raw rubber, is applied to the casing with an adhesive and the
tire is placed into a heavy metal mold, filled with extreme air pressure,
and "cooked" at high temperature for several hours. The raw rubber is
merged with the casing surface and, when cooled, should be almost a single
body. However, sometimes the process is flawed, part of the casing gets no
adhsive, or there are air pockets under the belt, and a defective tire is
the end product. Eventually, the belt will separate from the casing. You
can spot this condition if you inspect the tire for "bubbles" in the tread
area, or places where the tread suddenly gets wider than the rest. The
vendor will replace this tire, probably for nothing unless the tread is
pretty worn. You will get an adjustment of some sort if the tire is a
quality brand.
You can cause tread to separate by heating the tire
to high temperature, even the highest quality product. If you are towing
someone who is stuck and spin the tires until they smoke, you will
probably get some separation. You can also do this if you are stuck
yourself.
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LIGHTS
-Headlights are dim.
System
short. You likely have a short in the system which is draining
off juice that should be going to the headlights. You will have to have a
mechanic fix this, but if you have an insatiable need to know where the
short is, remove the fuses from all of your system circuits one at a time,
start the engine and turn on the lights. Unless the short is in the
ignition or headlight circuits, the lights will work fine when the
defective circuit is disbaled.
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LIGHTS
-One
blinker won't work even though the bulb comes on.
Short or bulb out. Systems vary. Some (very wise)
designers have made taillights and blinkers independent of other
electrical components, but if they aren't, one bulb out anywhere in the
circuit will affect the other lights. Check ALL bulbs, including trunk
light, side panel, backup, under-hood, etc. The many variations of system
curcuitry makes this a hard problem to diagnose but a mechanic can locate
it quickly.
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LIGHTS
-Cab
overhead won't work even though bulb appears OK.
Door switch defective or sticking. On the front
inside pannel of each door is a small plastic button that protrudes from
the metal. When the door closes it pushes the button in and breaks the
connection, so the overhead light goes off. The opposite happens when the
door is opened. Sometimes the switch gets fouled with dirt and chemicals
you may clean the car with, so it sticks. If it isn't popping out when the
door is open try squirting a dissolving agent on the base of the switch,
like isopropyl alchohol, or very hot water (just a small tad!). If the
button releases, push it in a number of times with your finger. Apply a
small amount of WD40 to keep it lubricated. One of your dor switches may
be bad, or the problem may be other components in the circuit. Let a
mechanic figure it our if you can't live without your dome light.
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POWER
ACCESSORIES
-Power
windows/locks/seats won't work.
Blown fuse
or motor. Anything electrical on the vehicle that has problems,
a fuse should be the first thing you check. In the case of windows or
locks, there willl be a clue in how many, or how few, of them are
affected. If it's just one, it may be a defective motor or a short in the
the local area. If it's two, probably a short as two motors rarely go out
at once, and if it's ALL of them, almost surely a fuse.
Be
extremely carefull with power components when your battery is very low.
The reason for this is not what you might guess, "Because you will drain
the battery?". Nope! There is a point at which your battery has just
enough juice to engage a window or lock, but not enough to make it move.
Unless the vehicle is a late model, the motor will keep trying to budge
the window until it overheats and burns out, and that same thing can
happen to every one of the relays in the curcuit. This little mishap can
cost you over $1,000.
If you find yourself in a situation where you
try to open a window or door lock, and it doesn't work, but you smell
something hot, TURN THE KEY OFF IMMEDIATELY! Have the battery checked
first thing. If it's low this is what was happening. Hopefully, you can
catch it soon enough to avoid extensive damage. By the way, this won't
happen when the car is running because the alternator would compensate for
a low battery, but when the engine is not running, and the battery is
almost spent.
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POWER
WINDOWS
-Windows are closed, but
too much wind noise.
Window is out of rubber
guide. If a window is loose, or someone pushes on it from the
inside, outward, while it's moving, it can be dislodged from its track,
that rubber "thingy" that runs along the door frame with the slot in it.
This lets in excess air when you are moving at medium to high
speeds.
Roll the window all the way down and begin raising it
slowly. It would help to have another person outside to help. Take note of
where the glass came out of the rubber and, as you come to that point,
stop the window and make sure it is staying in. The rubber is flexible, so
you can expand it with your finger. Make sure the window seats at the
top.
If the window is loose in its' bracket inside the door there
will be "play" in it, and it will break loose from the restraint of the
rubber guide easily. Get the window tightened or this will continue to
happen.
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POWER
ACCESSORIES
-When I use a window
or the seat, I smell burning rubber.
Serious short in circuit or motor. Hopefully,
when this happens you have the presence of mind not to use anything power
again until you can get this problem diagnosed. Otherwise, you will almost
certainly burn out a motor or damage the circuit relays. This is a serious
short, probably a wire that has rubbed on something metal until the
insulation is worn away and the wires are exposed. If this happens, it
would be wise to take the fuse out so some other person who is unaware of
the problem doesn't inadvertently cause expensive damage.
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WIPERS &
WASHERS
-Wipers won't
work
Fuse or defective motor.
Anything electrical that malfunctions may be traced to a fuse. If both
wipers are inoperable it is probably a fuse as it is highly unlikely that
both motors would go out at the same time.
On the other hand, just
one wiper inoperable is likely a defective motor. However, before you pop
for a new motor and an hour of repair time, open the hood and inspect the
motor in question. Most of them have the wires connected with little clips
that slide over a flat metal lead, or contact. One of these may have come
off, or someone working under the hood may have inadvertenly pulled it
off. Slip it back on and try the wiper.
If this keeps happening the
clip may be expanded to the extent that it won't clasp the lead firmly and
slips off. Use a pair of pliers to close the clip, but not too much. Try
slipping it back on the contact and tugging gently on it. If it stays in
place, it will probably stay connected.
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WIPERS &
WASHERS
-Washers won't
work
Disconnected water hose.
Check the washer pump, located on the firewall (behind the engine), and
the spray nozzles to see if the small hose has come off. If the car is
older the hose end may have lost elastisity and remains in an expanded
shape even when it's not on the nozzle it fits over. Trim just the
expanded part off with a sharp knife and slip it back on. Sometimes these
hoses become brittle with age and crack. If this is the case, replace
them.
Clogged hose. If the hoses are
connected check the outlet in the bottom of the water tank. Alot of dirt
and grime gets into them and will sometimes plug the hose. Just clean the
clog and things should be fine.
Defective
pump. If all else appears to be ok, check the fuse. If it isn't
blown you probably have a defective water pump, or the wires have sliped
off the contacts. Check the wires, and if they are in place, you need a
new pump.
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WIPERS &
WASHERS
-Wipers make
noise
Wrong blade or angle. This
seems like a trivial problem, but if you've ever encountered it, it is
anything but trivial. Irritating at best. You probably replaced the blades
yourself, no? If this is the case, you bought the budget brand and found a
way to make them work. Perhaps you even took the factory arms off and used
the new ones (?) Wipers are sensative to several factors; angle and length
of the blade, length of the arm and clearance of the arm, or distance from
the glass and angle of the glass. These mechanisms were precisely designed
by the manufacturer to work properly, but they can't build a wiper that
will use any kind of blade and arm assembly.
Go to a dealer and buy
the recommended replacements for the blades on your model vehicle. If you
wish to avoid the hassle of going to a dealer for blades, or live in a
small town and must drive 100 miles to a dealer, buy several sets at once
and keep some extras on hand. It's either that, or put up with noisy
wipers!
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CLUTCH
-Gears
grind and clutch won't disengage.
Clutch
adjustment. Unless your vehicle is older, the clutch probably
just needs adjustment.
The adjustment here isn't actually to the
clutch but the set screw at the top of the arm, near where the arm is
attached to the firewall or beneath the dash assembly. Get under the dash
and depress the clutch, you will see a small bolt at the top of the arm
pushing against another assembly. Assuming your clutch is hydraulic, the
assembly it pushes against is either the pushrod that actuates the
hydraulic cylinder, or something attached to the rod.
The problem
is that the rod is not being pushed far enough, so the small bolt on the
clutch arm needs to extend FARTHER out from the arm. Adjust it accordingly
and try shifting again. If the problem persists, check the hydraulic
cylinder for fluid level. Add some if needed. If this doesn't help, you
have a problem with the clutch itself, or perhaps the flywheel. Take it to
a mechanic.
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CLUTCH
-Clutch is
slipping, engine revs but vehicle doesn't speed up.
Clutch adjustment or clutch replacement. Slipping
is the result when a clutch won't completely engage the transmission with
the flywheel. This should only happen when a vehicle is 5 years old or
older, unless your clutch was defective from the factory, or you hot rod
your vehicle by popping the clutch. "Riding" the clutch can also cause
this problem prematurely. Riding means you hold the clutch just part way
down, perhaps to make the car just edge ahead at a light, or perhaps to
keep the vehicle from rolling backward down a hill. This is very
destructive and will wear a clutch in short order.
Although there
are adjustments that can be made to eliminate slipping, it is advisable to
have a qualified mechanic do the work.
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